Organoscapes - The Garden Academy

Organoscapes is the original 100% organic landscape and maintenance company and is owned by Ron Breland. He has over 30 years of extensive landscape experience in the Houston area and has been committed to organic management practices since 1990.

Contacts:

Office: (281) 491-9534

E-mail: brelandr@comcast.net

Website: www.organoscapes.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/Organoscapes

We have always loved Ron's monthly garden tips for homeowners on his Facebook page. They fall right along with our own garden practices, so we happily share them each month. When it came time to add a page for our own recommended monthly garden chores, I kept looking at Ron's lists and thinking that this is just what we would tell people anyway, so why not list them right from the source?

January Maintenance:

Winter feeding: fertilize annuals/vegetable/herb beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4, of course!
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar and molasses over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water. Seaweed will also act as a natural anti-freeze to help plant tissues survive sudden cold snaps.
Stock up on freeze cloth, if you can still find it! Use sheets or blankets as an alternative. Do not use plastic - it will transfer cold!
Install native plant material now. Winter is planting time!
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"!
No pruning yet! Wait until early spring.
Check plant material for scale insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Water deeply before cold snaps to insulate plant tissues.
Shut the lawn irrigation OFF until spring. You're just growing weeds and fungus.
Continue to mow at the highest setting every once in a while to slow down weed crops from flowering and seeding.
It's time to get busy! Happy New Year!

February Maintenance:

First main organic fertilization for the year: fertilize the lawn, beds, and annuals/vegetable/herb beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We try to use Microlife Ulimate 8-4-6 for the lawn and Microlife 6-2-4 for everything else.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar and molasses over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water. Seaweed will also act as a natural anti-freeze to help plant tissues survive sudden cold snaps.
Install natives, trees, and other Gulf Coast hardy plant material now now. Winter is planting time!
There's still time to move those plant materials in bad spots to better locations. Use liquid seaweed as a root stimulator.
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"!
No pruning yet! Wait until early spring (it's still winter, believe it or not!).
Check plant material for scale insects. Spray neem, orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Water deeply before cold snaps to insulate plant tissues.
Shut the lawn irrigation OFF, until spring. You're just growing weeds and fungus.
Continue to mow at the highest setting every once in a while to slow down weed crops from flowering and seeding.
It's time to get busy!

March Maintenance:

If you did not fertilize in February, March should be the first main organic fertilization for the year. Fertilize the lawn, beds, and annuals/vegetable/herb beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We try to use Microlife Ulimate 8-4-6 for the lawn and Microlife 6-2-4 for everything else.
Work in a half cup of Epsom salts around roses, hibiscus, and other bloomers to increase flower production.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar and molasses over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water.
Install natives, trees, and other Gulf Coast hardy plant material now. Spring is right around the corner!
There's still time to move those plant materials in bad spots to better locations. Use liquid seaweed as a root stimulator.
Dig up, thin out, and transplant perennials so crowded they are no longer blooming properly.
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"!
If you can wait, hold off on pruning and your annual spring clean-up. Wait until early spring (it's still winter, believe it or not!).
If you did not prune your Crape Myrtles in February do it now if they really need it. I don't prune mine.
Check plant material for scale insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/ one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Water deeply before cold snaps to insulate plant tissues.
Keep the lawn irrigation OFF until spring. You're just growing weeds and fungus.
Continue to mow at the highest setting every once in a while to slow down weed crops from flowering and seeding.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn to minimize fungal problems next fall.
When mowing, watch out for Bluebonnets...they look just like clover!
Get your mower and other power equipment serviced before the spring rush. Sharpen hand pruners and trimmers.
It's going to be a busy month!

April Maintenance:

If you have not already done so, fertilize the lawn and beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use either Microlife 6-2-4 for the beds or Microlife Ultimate 8-4-6 for the lawn.
Install finished compost and shredded native, cedar, or hardwood mulch over all bed areas.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn with enriched topsoil.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz./one gallon of water.
Now is the time to install/transplant new turf and plant material before it gets too warm!
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot spray with vinegar herbicide, if you are feeling lazy.
Begin weekly mowing at the highest setting. Do not bag! Clippings are the mulch for the lawn and free fertilizer!
Check plant material for scale and other insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Monitor tree trunks and canopies for caterpillar activity. Scrape or wash infestations off trunks. Ignore minor activity...give the birds something to eat! Spray Bt as a last resort in the early or late evening hours.
Finish up by pruning visible winter die-back or damaged plants.
Prune and shape ornamental grasses to flush out new growth.
Keep the beds evenly moist. No lawn irrigation needed just yet. You are just watering weeds. Wait until next month in most cases.
It's time to get busy!

May Maintenance: spread the word!

If you have not already done so, fertilize the lawn and beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use either Microlife 6-2-4 or Microlife Ultimate 8-4-6. Don’t forget to feed vegetables, herbs, annuals, and pots!
Prune and feed azaleas now. Apply organic fertilizer and granular sulfur at 7 lbs/1000 sq. ft. Repeat again before mid-June.
Feed roses with 1 cup alfalfa meal per plant as an organic fertilizer alternative. Dead head all spent blooms to encourage new buds.
Install finished compost and shredded native mulch, cedar, or hardwood over all bed areas.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz./one gallon of water. Add apple cider vinegar at the same rate for an extra nutrient bonus.
Mow the lawn at the highest setting and do not bag clippings!
Now is the time to install new turf and plant material before it gets too warm!
Hand pull (it's not against the law,yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot treat with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for insect populations. Spray orange oil, neem, soap, or vegetable oil at 2 oz/ one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Scout the landscape for fire ant mounds. Spot treat with low-toxic products. We have been using "Ascend" for years, with good results. Remember that fire ants, in low populations,are beneficial! They will feed on termites, chinch bugs, web worms, ticks,or anything else in their territory.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Start lawn irrigation for approximately 20-30 minutes once weekly if no rainfall.

June Maintenance: spread the word!

If you have not already done so, fertilize the lawn and beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 10-20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4. This should be your second main feeding, Don’t forget to feed vegetables, herbs, annuals, and pots!
You still have time to prune and feed azaleas. Apply organic fertilizer and granular sulfur at 7 lbs/1000 sq. ft. Try to finish before mid-June.
Feed roses with 1 cup alfalfa meal per plant as an organic fertilizer alternative. Dead head all spent blooms to encourage new buds.
Install finished compost and shredded native mulch, cedar, or hardwood over all bed areas.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz./one gallon of water. Add apple cider vinegar at the same rate for an extra nutrient bonus.
Mow the lawn at the highest setting and do not bag clippings!
There is still time to install new turf and plant material before it gets too warm!
Hand pull (it's not against the law,yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot treat with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for insect populations. Spray orange oil, neem, soap, or vegetable oil at 2 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Scout the landscape for fire ant mounds. Spot treat with low-toxic products. We have been using "Ascend" for years with good results. Remember that fire ants, in low populations, are beneficial! They will feed on termites, chinch bugs, web worms, ticks,or anything else in their territory.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Irrigate the lawn for approximately 20-30 minutes,once-twice weekly if no rainfall.

July Maintenance: spread the word!

If you have not already done so, fertilize the lawn and beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 10 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4. This should be your second main feeding. Don’t forget to feed vegetables, herbs, annuals, and pots!
Last recommended chance to feed azaleas. Apply organic fertilizer and granular sulfur at 7 lbs/1000 sq. ft.
Feed roses with 1 cup alfalfa meal per plant as an organic fertilizer alternative. Dead head all spent blooms to encourage new buds.
Install finished compost and shredded native mulch, cedar, or hardwood over all bed areas if you have not already done so.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn.
As a nutrient bonus spray liquid seaweed over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz./ one gallon of water. Add apple cider vinegar at the same rate for an extra nutrient bonus.
Mow the lawn at the highest setting and do not bag clippings!
It's not too late to install new turf and plant material. Stay away from installing large plants until the fall.
Hand pull (it's not against the law,yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot treat with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material and lawn for insect populations. Spray orange oil, neem, soap, or vegetable oil at 2 oz/ one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Scout the landscape for fire ant mounds. Spot treat with low-toxic products. Use "Spinosad" or "Ascend" for good results. Remember that fire ants, in low populations, are beneficial! They will feed on termites, chinch bugs, web worms, ticks, or anything else in their territory.
Keep the beds evenly moist.
Irrigate the lawn for approximately 20-30 minutes twice weekly if no rainfall.
Stay hydrated and get busy!

August Maintenance: This what you should be doing this month:

Spray the lawn and landscape with liquid seaweed at 2-3 oz./one gallon of water for an additional vitamin tonic and summer stress relief.
Lightly fertilize annuals, vegetables, herbs, and pots with 100% organic fertilizer at 10 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
Do not feed the lawn at this time. Summer heat and rapid growth can attract chinch bugs, sod web worms, and promote fall brown patch. If the lawn needs "something", broadcast granular humates or dry molasses at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. to condition the soil and stimulate soil life.
Feed roses with one-two cups alfalfa meal per plant and/or a few tablespoons Epsom salts. Deadhead spent blooms to encourage additional flowering.
Install compost/native mulch in beds, if you have not already done so, to save on water bills and slowly condition the soil.
Mow at the highest setting and leave those clippings on the ground. Tall grass is healthy grass! Water deeply as needed.
Watch for late summer insect outbreaks: chinch bugs, aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, mealy bugs, and scale. Spray liquid soap, neem, or orange oil at 2 oz./gallon of water in the early hours or late evening for best results. Spray caterpillar activity with Bt ( Bacillus thuringiensis).
Stay hydrated and get busy!

September Maintenance:

Fall feeding: fertilize the landscape, vegetable-herb beds, and pots with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4,of course! I generally skip feeding the lawn at this time of year due to sod web worm and brown patch fungus concerns. They both can thrive on tender, succulent growth. Spread bagged humates instead at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water.
If you have not already done so, install finished compost and shredded native mulch over all bed areas.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn. Use regular topsoil. Rich, organic soil will decompose and the low spot will resettle.
Install new turf and plant material. Fall is planting time!
Hand pull (it's not against the law,yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot spray with vinegar herbicide, if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for scale, aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and other insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Watch lawn for sudden "scalped" areas. This could be an indication of sod web worms. Spray Bt once weekly in the cooler parts of the day until recovery begins.
Watch for brown patch fungus in the lawn, if it ever cools off! Cut back on irrigation, spread agricultural cornmeal at 20 lbs./ 1000 sq. ft., and spray apple cider vinegar or garlic juice at 3-4 oz./one gallon of water over the infected area.
Keep the beds evenly moist. Water the lawn for approximately 20-30 minutes once-twice weekly if no rainfall.
If you are mowing high and recycling clippings your lawn water bill will drop!
It's time to get busy!

October Maintenance:

Fall feeding: fertilize the landscape (if you did not in September), vegetable-herb beds, and pots with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4, of course! I generally skip feeding the lawn at this time of year due to sod web worm and brown patch fungus concerns. They both can thrive on tender, succulent growth. Spread bagged humates instead at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water.
If you have not already done so, install finished compost and shredded native mulch over all bed areas.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn. Use regular topsoil. Rich, organic soil will decompose and the low spot will resettle.
Install new turf and plant material. Fall is planting time!
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot spray with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for scale, aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and other insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Watch lawn for sudden "scalped" areas. This could be an indication of sod web worms. Spray Bt once weekly in the cooler parts of the day until recovery begins.
Watch for brown patch fungus in the lawn, if it ever cools off! Cut back on irrigation, spread agricultural cornmeal at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft., and spray apple cider vinegar or garlic juice at 3-4 oz./one gallon of water over the infected area.
Keep the beds evenly moist.
Water the lawn for approximately 20-30 minutes once weekly if no rainfall. If you are mowing high and recycling clippings your lawn water bill will drop!
It's time to get busy!

November Maintenance:

Fall feeding: fertilize vegetable-herb beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4, of course!
Spread bagged humates as a soil conditioner, at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. on the lawn instead of regular fertilizer. Let the lawn go dormant.
As a nutrient bonus, spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar and molasses over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water. Seaweed will also act as a natural anti-freeze to help plant tissues survive sudden cold snaps.
If you have not already done so, install finished compost and shredded native mulch over all bed areas to lock in warm soil temperatures.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn. Use regular topsoil. Rich, organic soil will decompose and the low spot will resettle.
Install new bed plant material and trees now. Fall is planting time! Go ahead and set out fall-winter color (except Cyclamens - wait until December!). Plant cool season vegetables and herbs.
Hand pull (it's not against the law, yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot spray with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for scale, aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and other insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Watch for brown patch fungus in the lawn. Spread agricultural cornmeal at 20 lbs./ 1000 sq. ft., and spray apple cider vinegar or garlic juice at 3-4 oz./one gallon of water over the infected area.
Keep the beds evenly moist.
Shut the lawn irrigation OFF until spring. You're just growing weeds and fungus.
Continue to mow at the highest setting every once in a while to slow down weed crops from flowering and seeding.
It's time to get busy!

December Maintenance:

Fall feeding: fertilize vegetable-herb beds with 100% organic fertilizer at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. We use Microlife 6-2-4, of course!
Spread bagged humates as a soil conditioner, at 20 lbs./1000 sq. ft. on the lawn, instead of regular fertilizer. Let the lawn go dormant.
As a nutrient bonus spray liquid seaweed with apple cider vinegar and molasses over the entire landscape at 2-3 oz. each/per gallon of water. Seaweed will also act as a natural anti-freeze to help plant tissues survive sudden cold snaps.
If you have not already done so, install finished compost and shredded native mulch over all bed areas to lock in warm soil temperatures.
Fill in and level any low spots in the lawn. Use regular topsoil. Rich, organic soil will decompose and the low spot will resettle.
Install new bed plant material and trees now. Fall is planting time! Go ahead and set out fall-winter color. Plant cool season vegetables and herbs.
Hand pull (it's not against the law,yet!) and extract weed crops from the lawn and beds. Most will pop right out with a hand trowel and a little "elbow grease herbicide"! Spot spray with vinegar herbicide if you are feeling lazy.
Check plant material for scale, aphids, whiteflies, leafhoppers, and other insects. Spray orange oil, soap, or vegetable oil at 2-3 oz/one gallon of water. Repeat as needed.
Keep the beds evenly moist.
Shut the lawn irrigation OFF until spring. You're just growing weeds and fungus.
Continue to mow at the highest setting every once in a while to slow down weed crops from flowering and seeding.
It's time to get busy!